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Duraboard Supply?


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#1 Christopher Rice

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Posted 03 January 2011 - 11:32 AM

Was wondering if any of you knew where to get Duraboard. I know that Zoeller has some, just wondering if anyone else had a better price. Also, is it okay to use ITC 100 with duraboard? It seems to chip and flake much more than QF-180. Maybe this is because I put it over the QF-180?
-chris
[center][font="Century Gothic"][size="5"][color="#8B0000"]Christopher & Jacquelyn Rice

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#2 PTsideshow

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Posted 03 January 2011 - 02:14 PM

Should be able to find a local supplier. Google it and they have some people that are wanting crazy prices for small peices. 1/2" thick, 4 pieces Price: $167.65 (USD) at a stained glass supply
Their home page


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#3 Christopher Rice

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Posted 03 January 2011 - 03:00 PM

Thanks Glenn, as always you are a huge help!! Any idea about the QTC 100? I'm assuming it's not sticking very well to the layer of QF 180 I had on their prior. Hence the reason I want new duraboard to reline my forge.
-chris
[center][font="Century Gothic"][size="5"][color="#8B0000"]Christopher & Jacquelyn Rice

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#4 PTsideshow

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Posted 03 January 2011 - 04:13 PM

Are you coating rigid board or blanket.

PDF link to the info on their coating etc

I haven't used the blanket other than as a bead wrap, I have used the rigid board and didn't use any covering of the type of the 100 or the QF180.

Having used other brands for crack repair, and adhesive in joining broken refractory back in place to keep the heating boilers running to summer tear down. I known that it has a shelf life, and you have to mix it up real good from the bottom of the bucket to the top.
Then air dry before, before heating.

The rigid board Is stiff enough, for some abuse but most use the thin or cut down soft fire brick as a forge/kiln floor.

The only forge that was gas fired That I have used is a Johnson hard fire brick lined one. Did have to worry about the coal fired open style forge.

Sorry I can't help you any more, maybe somebody else on here can offer some more hand s on advice.

As a last resort they have a technical hot help line. I have found out that those people on the help lines like helping with something slightly. Out of the ordinary, I was told by a guy on one of those lines once. That it gave him something to talk to his wife about, that wasn't work. Since I was miss using the product in the production of a magic trick!
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glen

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#5 ornametalsmith

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Posted 04 January 2011 - 06:28 AM

here's another source.......and he has lots of good info as well.

http://elliscustomkn...s-mainpage.html
Bill
http://www.CustomDesignMetalArts.com/
http://www.FloridianForge.com/

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http://www.customdes...com/studio.html
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#6 Christopher Rice

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Posted 04 January 2011 - 07:18 AM

Thanks alot guys, really appreciate the input. I have the 1" board on all sides of my forge, along with 1/2" firebricks on the bottom. Sounds like I really don't need a coating on the board? Is it used more for efficiency maybe?
-chris
[center][font="Century Gothic"][size="5"][color="#8B0000"]Christopher & Jacquelyn Rice

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#7 PTsideshow

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Posted 04 January 2011 - 08:04 AM

As I understand it, the coating is used for the ceramic fiber blanket, as a protection from the flame impinging on it and over time altering the it make up. Mainly making it brittle and the extremely tiny fibers from becoming airborne.

Here is what I know and some further info

The above was dealing with a book I reviewed that used the fiber blanket as a melting furnace, along with the kiln potters use for limited larger pots/objects and the large annealing oven by hot glass workers.

Since most of the thermal insulating material , has silica in its make up and free floating silica's etc isn't good to breath.

As far as adding any thing as far as heat retention, It probably is negligible. You would be better served to add a layer on the outer of the forge. The rock wool/mineral wool is starting to make a come back.
Mineral wool one brand

Info on why it may be a good choice

But there are threads here in the forum on it.

Remember, the rigid board has two sides that can be used, if it just worn or small dings and gouges in it it might be possible to remove and flip the sides, or if the are the same size panels. use the damage one for the floor and place the fire brick on top.
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glen

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"I am not ashamed to admit, that I am ignorant of the things I do not know"!

Cicero

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All the usual and standard disclaimers apply. Do not try this at home, use only as directed, No warranties express or implied, for the intended use or suggested uses, Wear safety glasses, closed course, professionals only

#8 Christopher Rice

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Posted 05 January 2011 - 05:06 AM

Well, looks like I'm being a little anal then, I think my forge is fine. Just need to replace a couple of small pieces that keep falling out, and clean out the flakes from the ITC. Thanks so much for your input, it is greatly appreciated!!
-chris
[center][font="Century Gothic"][size="5"][color="#8B0000"]Christopher & Jacquelyn Rice

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#9 Rich Waugh

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Posted 05 January 2011 - 06:20 PM

I use fiber blanket to line my forges and either hard firebrick splits or silicon carbide kiln shelf for the floors. I always coat the blanket with some sort of top coat for two main reasons: to protect it from snagging and to help with forge efficiency. These days I usually use a coat or two of Plistix 900F (obtained from www.zoellerforge.com) and sometimes put a coat of ITC-100 (obtained from anvilfire.com) over that to increase efficiency. The Plistix is a fair reflector of infrared heat, but the ITC-100 is an excellent reflector. This increases forge heat and decreases fuel consumption. Any good coating will reduce airborne particles.

I have a good friend who generally uses the fiberboard insulation to make his forges and he customarily coats it with the the ITC-100 to increase efficiency and provide a measure of increased durability as well as limit airborne particles.

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