<![CDATA[The Metal Artist Forum - All Forums]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/ Sun, 14 Mar 2010 11:42:20 -0600 MyBB <![CDATA[New workspaces]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5541 Sun, 14 Mar 2010 10:52:54 -0600 http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5541
Last weekend I got rid of a funky old couch in one of the rooms, gave it to the Salvation Army, cleared the space, and got a nice sturdy plastic folding table. Got some lumber and made a couple shelves for it, along with a stand for the daylight fluorescent lamp, and painted them. Yesterday it was plenty dry enough to move into, so I set it up. As you can see, the R side is the patina workspace, and the L side is the sheath workspace. It also enabled me to clear all this stuff out of the anodizing area. Nice to have more room, plus I've never had all the SN stuff out of it's box before. Doing sheaths on the dining room table was kind of lame too. So I plan to do some more experimenting with patinas, ordered a starter airbrush deal yesterday. Big fun you betcha.

[attachment=13494]

[attachment=13495]

[attachment=13496]

Started a nice beef stew, simmering now. Good meal for a chilly, rainy day.]]>
Last weekend I got rid of a funky old couch in one of the rooms, gave it to the Salvation Army, cleared the space, and got a nice sturdy plastic folding table. Got some lumber and made a couple shelves for it, along with a stand for the daylight fluorescent lamp, and painted them. Yesterday it was plenty dry enough to move into, so I set it up. As you can see, the R side is the patina workspace, and the L side is the sheath workspace. It also enabled me to clear all this stuff out of the anodizing area. Nice to have more room, plus I've never had all the SN stuff out of it's box before. Doing sheaths on the dining room table was kind of lame too. So I plan to do some more experimenting with patinas, ordered a starter airbrush deal yesterday. Big fun you betcha.

[attachment=13494]

[attachment=13495]

[attachment=13496]

Started a nice beef stew, simmering now. Good meal for a chilly, rainy day.]]> <![CDATA[engine turn harley ad - perception and reality]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5540 Sun, 14 Mar 2010 10:29:43 -0600 http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5540 continued from Here)
was truly a tedious and rebolting experience.

But the client loved it.

When we sell things, it is often not the object the customer is buying but the dream, and whether you like the rest of this story or not, one needs to remember that. When you present things, support the other guy's dream when you can.

They got some great shots of cool chrome and plastic parts, both closeups and nice shots of them in the cool bubble packs with the Harley logo and the American flag and they all were proudly labeled, "printed in the USA" on the bottom of the card. It was difficult to find the made in china stamps on the inside of the parts and they did have good quality control, so the customers were happy they got good parts, and since most of them spent more time looking at the scenery, or the polished bike from 10 paces, than the bottom back of the foot peg right next to the rubber. (or similar location), they may never have noticed.

So play your strengths and feed how your passion may make your client happy right back at him.

and don't get too far ahead of yourself...

The sale of imported accessories helped allow Harley to make money, and recover from bankruptcy after poor quality control and a consultant that had them install 1910 production tech into a 1970's market. He set up a Henry Ford automotive style production line with parts and sub assemblies warehoused on conveyors feeding into it.
Parts would come off the truck from subs, and get loaded on the chain conveyors.
But some of the subs were on dope or something and their parts were crap. When a bad shipment came in, They wouldn't find out about it until days later when the first bad part hit the line. (and then there were a hundred or so more all cued up on the conveyor behind it.) It doesn't take too many hours of the entire workforce twiddling their thumbs to dent your profit.]]> continued from Here)
was truly a tedious and rebolting experience.

But the client loved it.

When we sell things, it is often not the object the customer is buying but the dream, and whether you like the rest of this story or not, one needs to remember that. When you present things, support the other guy's dream when you can.

They got some great shots of cool chrome and plastic parts, both closeups and nice shots of them in the cool bubble packs with the Harley logo and the American flag and they all were proudly labeled, "printed in the USA" on the bottom of the card. It was difficult to find the made in china stamps on the inside of the parts and they did have good quality control, so the customers were happy they got good parts, and since most of them spent more time looking at the scenery, or the polished bike from 10 paces, than the bottom back of the foot peg right next to the rubber. (or similar location), they may never have noticed.

So play your strengths and feed how your passion may make your client happy right back at him.

and don't get too far ahead of yourself...

The sale of imported accessories helped allow Harley to make money, and recover from bankruptcy after poor quality control and a consultant that had them install 1910 production tech into a 1970's market. He set up a Henry Ford automotive style production line with parts and sub assemblies warehoused on conveyors feeding into it.
Parts would come off the truck from subs, and get loaded on the chain conveyors.
But some of the subs were on dope or something and their parts were crap. When a bad shipment came in, They wouldn't find out about it until days later when the first bad part hit the line. (and then there were a hundred or so more all cued up on the conveyor behind it.) It doesn't take too many hours of the entire workforce twiddling their thumbs to dent your profit.]]> <![CDATA[Forging pipe]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5538 Sat, 13 Mar 2010 12:34:08 -0700 http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5538
-Judson

[attachment=13486][attachment=13487]]]>
-Judson

[attachment=13486][attachment=13487]]]> <![CDATA[Jeweling]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5537 Sat, 13 Mar 2010 10:31:35 -0700 http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5537
Is there a certain abrasive disk needed?]]>
Is there a certain abrasive disk needed?]]> <![CDATA[MAF Welcomes The Mettle Works!]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5536 Sat, 13 Mar 2010 06:39:18 -0700 http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5536 Beer]]> Beer]]> <![CDATA[First forging in the new set up.]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5535 Fri, 12 Mar 2010 22:06:37 -0700 http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5535 <![CDATA[New Fold Form Projects]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5533 Thu, 11 Mar 2010 20:46:09 -0700 http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5533
I'm not sure what to call the larger one. It may be part of a series. I'm working on several pieces that start out with the same shape and turn out quite different. They are cut from a piece of flattened 3" copper pipe. I'm using the cut out as well as the left over piece. It's kind of cool working with the thicker copper versus the sheet for the smaller pieces. Glad I built that power hammer.

It also has the Rainbow patina and Black Magic Patina on the mild steel base. It stands about 10" tall and 8" wide. The base is 3/4" plate.

[attachment=13462][attachment=13463][attachment=13464][attachment=13465][attachment=13466][attachment=13467][attachment=13468]]]>
I'm not sure what to call the larger one. It may be part of a series. I'm working on several pieces that start out with the same shape and turn out quite different. They are cut from a piece of flattened 3" copper pipe. I'm using the cut out as well as the left over piece. It's kind of cool working with the thicker copper versus the sheet for the smaller pieces. Glad I built that power hammer.

It also has the Rainbow patina and Black Magic Patina on the mild steel base. It stands about 10" tall and 8" wide. The base is 3/4" plate.

[attachment=13462][attachment=13463][attachment=13464][attachment=13465][attachment=13466][attachment=13467][attachment=13468]]]> <![CDATA[Can anyone identify this pipe cutter?]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5532 Thu, 11 Mar 2010 19:12:16 -0700 http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5532
[attachment=13459] [attachment=13460] [attachment=13461]]]>
[attachment=13459] [attachment=13460] [attachment=13461]]]> <![CDATA[Roadrunner]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5531 Thu, 11 Mar 2010 17:49:50 -0700 http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5531


[attachment=13456][attachment=13457][attachment=13458]]]>


[attachment=13456][attachment=13457][attachment=13458]]]> <![CDATA[Rooster]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5530 Thu, 11 Mar 2010 09:27:40 -0700 http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5530 [attachment=13404]

Normally I like the natural metal color with some clear Rustolium. But the comb and waddles seem to need some color.]]> [attachment=13404]

Normally I like the natural metal color with some clear Rustolium. But the comb and waddles seem to need some color.]]> <![CDATA[Greetings from SoCal]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5529 Wed, 10 Mar 2010 20:15:53 -0700 http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5529 Most of my work can be seen here http://bucketobolts.blogspot.com/
Seems like this is a very nice board. Looking forward to learning more and sharing my future projects.]]> Most of my work can be seen here http://bucketobolts.blogspot.com/
Seems like this is a very nice board. Looking forward to learning more and sharing my future projects.]]> <![CDATA[2 Stake Plates For Sale]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5527 Wed, 10 Mar 2010 18:41:17 -0700 http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5527 <![CDATA[[split] Blacksmith terminology across the pond]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5528 Wed, 10 Mar 2010 10:13:05 -0700 http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5528 In Britain, everyone trained as a smith, uses the same language. Which means, when one calls the other with a problem, they understand one and another. Here in the former colonies, when recreating the blacksmith, we also came up with different words. As such, we have no common language. I prefer to have a common language. For that reason, I try to use the blacksmith terms/names that has been around for longer then my country.]]> In Britain, everyone trained as a smith, uses the same language. Which means, when one calls the other with a problem, they understand one and another. Here in the former colonies, when recreating the blacksmith, we also came up with different words. As such, we have no common language. I prefer to have a common language. For that reason, I try to use the blacksmith terms/names that has been around for longer then my country.]]> <![CDATA[Pricing jobs at the shop ?]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5526 Wed, 10 Mar 2010 11:31:48 -0700 http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5526
What kind of forumala for price works best ?

Brian -]]>
What kind of forumala for price works best ?

Brian -]]> <![CDATA[Blacksmiths tools explained]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5525 Wed, 10 Mar 2010 10:13:05 -0700 http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5525
This list, originally courtesy of Glendale Forge http://www.glendaleforge.co.uk/ may help.

Thanks also to Frank Turley, for contributing the American Terminology and descriptions to allow cross referencing

I have added some other terms also in common use that were originally missed off the list.

The pictures illustrated are of the tools I had in my workshop, some are home made, some bought and others inherited, but all should help to give a visual identification for you to hopefully understand and relate to what may be being discussed.


Blacksmiths' Tools Explained

The Blacksmith's Tools have changed little if at all in design over the centuries and an attempt is made here to explain briefly some of those in more common use today.



Anvil: A London pattern anvil with a single bick (or horn or beak) is usually all that is required and should be used on a stand so that the top is level with the clenched fist. Ideal weight of anvil 3 cwt.

Ball Tools: Top and bottom tools used for forming ROUND or SQUAT BALLS or knobs on shanks or otherwise as required.

[attachment=13406] [attachment=13407] [attachment=13408]

Bending Forks: See also Horns and Scrolling Wrenches can be used in Hardie holes, vices, or as wrenches.

Bolster; A plate used to support material when it is being punched or drifted, (or it could be a swage block) with different size holes, round and square, and slots in to accommodate your punches and drifts.

[attachment=13426]

Bosh, Slack Tub, or Slack Water: A water tank attached to the front of the hearth for quenching hot metal. (Slack tub or slack water; From Frank Turley)

Breeze: Forge fuel, can be coke or coal, usually quite small pieces.

Brush (heavy wire): It is absolutely essential to remove scale and slag from a hot bar prior to commencing forging to prevent it being splashed into eyes or over bare arms. It is best to use a brush made with coarse long wire, fitted to a handle perhaps 14" long.

[attachment=13409]

Butcher: A cutting tool, particularly for quickly roughing a shoulder. The one illustrated nicks all around the edges of a square bar, giving a guide ready to use the SIDE SET for setting down a tenon shoulder on the Heel bar, then a SET HAMMER is used to square up the tenon shoulders

[attachment=13410] [attachment=13411]

Centre punch; For the accurate marking prior to drilling or forging.

[attachment=13416] [attachment=13415]

Curved Butchers can be used to make cut out sections and holes in plates, often used for making decorative back plates and hinges Butchers can be handled, rodded, or hand held.

[attachment=13412] [attachment=13455]

CheeseFuller; A fuller made with a face resembling a wedge of cheese, enabling one to gently neck in, or reduce the thickness of a bar.

[attachment=13414] [attachment=13413]

Cold chisel: For marking out and cutting steel cold, if used on hot steel they will need re heat treating. The radius on the cutting edge enables location and the ability to cut curves.

[attachment=13417] [attachment=13418]

Cold Set: A cutting tool for nicking bars cold prior to their being broken or cut. The cutting edge is radiused, and the body is wider/thicker than the HOT SET (In US called Cold cut if hafted. From Frank Turley)

[attachment=13419] [attachment=13420] [attachment=13421]

Collaring Tongs or Bow pliers; are used solely for the opening, closing and fitting of collars to a pair or cluster of bars to act as a permanent fastening.

[attachment=13425]

Cone or Mandrel; Used to set and correct rings after they have been formed, and they come in various sizes.

[attachment=13428]

Creasng Iron or Creaser (From Frank Turley): A specific type of Fuller, Used for putting in shaped grooves in horseshoes where the nails fit.

Domer; US term (see Rivet snap) From Frank Turley

Drifts; Are used to open up punched holes, or to form a taper, or a finished size

Barrel drift; Used to widen punched holes to a finished size, they can be knocked through due to the
taper on both ends

[attachment=13447]

Taper or Carrot drift; Used to widen punched holes, leaving a taper in the hole useful for handled tools.

[attachment=13448] [attachment=13449] [attachment=13450]

Flatter; as its name suggests, is employed in making the surface texture of the iron work piece flat or free from blemishes left by the hand hammer. Can be hand held, Handled, or Rod/Wire handled, the wire handle allows for better seating onto the workpiece, supporting the flatter loosely and not transmitting shockwaves as a rigid handle can do.

[attachment=13422]

Fullers, Fullering Irons or Creasing Irons or Creasers; having radiused blades, are used for necking in or swiftly drawing down a bar. Can also be individual, Having a profiled finish to put in shaped grooves ie as in horseshoes, centre lines on blades to lighten and strengthen them, or edging features.

If half round, fullers are asked for by their diameter in inches, Fullers are not always half round, they can take various shapes, For example a British Farrier may use a Fuller, or Fullering iron to put the nail grooves in a horseshoe, In the US, the tool is often called a Creaser or Creasing Iron for putting in the "Nail Crease" in the shoe. Sometimes we put it in lengthwise or crosswise sharp bottomed fuller marks for design elements, borders etc. From Frank Turley

[attachment=13423] [attachment=13451]

Hack; (US term) see Side Set From Frank Turley

Halfpenny Snub End Tool: For rounding up a Halfpenny Snub end, unfortunately only useful for a specific size.

[attachment=13424]

Hammer: For general work a ball pein hammer of 11/2-2 lbs is advisable. An identical spare should always be kept handy in case of emergency.

Hand Square: A Blacksmith's square for use with hot metals.

Hardie: Fits in the square or 'hardie' hole in the anvil and is used for cutting hot iron at the anvil.

[attachment=13427] [attachment=13452]

Hearth: Sometimes referred to as Forge; fired on coke beans, coal or other fuels. Forced draught from a fan or blower, produces intense forging and welding temperatures quickly. No real substitute for this original equipment.

Hickey (US): is an old term for Scroll Wrench From Frank Turley.

Horns: Either fitting in the vice or in the hardie hole, allow the bending or adjusting of, in particular, scrolls and similarly shaped bars.

[attachment=13429]

Hot Set or Hot Cut; A finer edged tool than the cold set, and used for cutting off hot metal, again hand held, handled or rodded

[attachment=13430]

Leg Vice: A Blacksmith's Vice designed to withstand general abuse, heavy bending and sledge-hammering. The shock is taken on its leg set into the floor. This is not a precision instrument and should not be likened to an Engineer's Vice.

Monkey Tool: Used for shouldering up a swaged tenon, the elongated sight hole being simply to ensure that the tenon does not foul inside the Monkey.

[attachment=13432]

Punches; Round punch Used to make round holes in hot metal, Square punch Used to make square holes in hot metal,
These can be hand held, handled, or rodded.(wire handled)

[attachment=13433] [attachment=13446]

Rivet set and snap; Can be one combined or two separate tools used to Set up the rivet, (close all the pieces together prior to riveting) and the Snap used to finish the dome head of the rivet, it can also be used to support a domed head when riveting to secure the pieces together. (Domer is a US term From Frank Turley)

[attachment=13434]

Rope Tools: Mould or swage iron in such a fashion that when twisted the bar will resemble a length of rope. Limited range of uses

[attachment=13435] [attachment=13436]

Set Hammer: Not a hammer as such, but is a tool used struck by a sledge to produce a very definite square shoulder on a stepped forging such as a tenon on a heel. To drive the set hammer well into the corner, the best results are gained by directing the blow diagonally, hitting the corner of the head.

[attachment=13437] [attachment=13453]

Scrolling Tongs or Round nose pliers; are used chiefly in making Scrolls, holding the bar on to the Scroll Tool and subsequently adjusting the tip of the scroll.

[attachment=13431]

Scroll Tool or Scroll Jig: A former or shaper on which to reproduce a number of identical scroll motifs. Note the ends are elevated to allow starting the scroll before pulling it around the rest of the form using scroll wrenches or scrolling tongs to control the curving. You will also see one that is less tighter than the others, this is for snub end scrolls that will not fit into the tighter rolled scrolling tools.

[attachment=13438]

Scroll Wrench: Is in effect a pair of horns on a handle, so that in conjunction with another such wrench or anvil horns one can adjust the shape of scrolls or make light bends. Hickey is an old US term for Scroll Wrench From Frank Turley.

[attachment=13439]

Side Set, Hack (US): Used for squaring up a shoulder prior to using the set hammer. (Hack From Frank Turley)

[attachment=13440] [attachment=13454]

Slack Tub see also Bosh; A water tank attached to the front of the hearth for quenching hot metal. (Slack tub or slack water; From Frank Turley)

Slide Valve; Used to control the air flow into the forge, and is fitted between the blower/fan and the tuyere or tue iron. The one illustrated is fitted to the ash dump for a bottom blast forge, and the tue has not yet been fitted

[attachment=13444] [attachment=13445]

Spring Tool or Veining Tool: A tool designed as a multi-purpose press invaluable for ribbing, veining and raising Acanthus leaves, making obsolete a whole range of Stakes. Not only making leaves more quickly and accurately, but also is used for decorating sheet and making rosettes etc.

[attachment=13441]

Swage, swedge sometimes, rhyming with sledge. From Frank Turley: Top and bottom tools for forging a round section. You can also have square swages. Handled, rodded or hand held top tools, the lower part fits in the hardie hole and can be used seperately, for instance when forging half round sections for ball collars, or backing for when forge welding bundles together to help keep the strands in close proximity making it easier to fuse them together. Specified by diameter produced in inches

Swages can also take other shapes than a near-half round. Again, in farriery, we sometimes swage light horseshoe stock by driving it into a bottom swage that has a sort of double-vee indent side by side. This leaves a raised carrot shape almost at the centre. When the stock is drawn through and turned over, you get the reverse image, a nail groove a little eccentric from centre. I have often used a bottom "shallow swage" (home made) for giving a Suffolk latch handle a nice appearance. (From Frank Turley)


[attachment=13442]

Swage Block: Rectangular block of Iron with a variety of shapes around its periphery for swaging on. Also has various shapes of holes through its face which act as bolsters. Must be used on a stand.

Tongs; are used for holding hot pieces of metal and are made in a variety of sizes and strengths strictly according to the size and shape of bar the Blacksmith intends to hold. It is of paramount importance that the correct size of tong is used in each particular application or the bar may well jump out of the tong and an accident occur. The use of one tong for a variety of jobs is therefore inviting trouble.

Tuyere or Tue Iron; In the hearth where the air input meets the fuel it can be plain hole(s) in a plate, or in a water cooled jacket.

Twisting Wrench: Simply a device for imparting torque to a bar to give it the twisted effect, second only to the scroll in its importance as a decorative design.

[attachment=13443]

Veining Tool (See Spring Tool)

[attachment=13441]

I hope you find this useful when looking for, talking about, or using new tools.

As you can see, many of these traditional tools need a striker to assist the 'smith to be used correctly, hence the development of the new alternatives which do the same tasks as the traditional tools, but can be operated by one person, many only needing a simple adaptation, others being newer tools like the Blacksmiths helper or Smithin' Magician and guillotine tools etc.

That's progress and innovation, and that is what the craft is all about.]]>
This list, originally courtesy of Glendale Forge http://www.glendaleforge.co.uk/ may help.

Thanks also to Frank Turley, for contributing the American Terminology and descriptions to allow cross referencing

I have added some other terms also in common use that were originally missed off the list.

The pictures illustrated are of the tools I had in my workshop, some are home made, some bought and others inherited, but all should help to give a visual identification for you to hopefully understand and relate to what may be being discussed.


Blacksmiths' Tools Explained

The Blacksmith's Tools have changed little if at all in design over the centuries and an attempt is made here to explain briefly some of those in more common use today.



Anvil: A London pattern anvil with a single bick (or horn or beak) is usually all that is required and should be used on a stand so that the top is level with the clenched fist. Ideal weight of anvil 3 cwt.

Ball Tools: Top and bottom tools used for forming ROUND or SQUAT BALLS or knobs on shanks or otherwise as required.

[attachment=13406] [attachment=13407] [attachment=13408]

Bending Forks: See also Horns and Scrolling Wrenches can be used in Hardie holes, vices, or as wrenches.

Bolster; A plate used to support material when it is being punched or drifted, (or it could be a swage block) with different size holes, round and square, and slots in to accommodate your punches and drifts.

[attachment=13426]

Bosh, Slack Tub, or Slack Water: A water tank attached to the front of the hearth for quenching hot metal. (Slack tub or slack water; From Frank Turley)

Breeze: Forge fuel, can be coke or coal, usually quite small pieces.

Brush (heavy wire): It is absolutely essential to remove scale and slag from a hot bar prior to commencing forging to prevent it being splashed into eyes or over bare arms. It is best to use a brush made with coarse long wire, fitted to a handle perhaps 14" long.

[attachment=13409]

Butcher: A cutting tool, particularly for quickly roughing a shoulder. The one illustrated nicks all around the edges of a square bar, giving a guide ready to use the SIDE SET for setting down a tenon shoulder on the Heel bar, then a SET HAMMER is used to square up the tenon shoulders

[attachment=13410] [attachment=13411]

Centre punch; For the accurate marking prior to drilling or forging.

[attachment=13416] [attachment=13415]

Curved Butchers can be used to make cut out sections and holes in plates, often used for making decorative back plates and hinges Butchers can be handled, rodded, or hand held.

[attachment=13412] [attachment=13455]

CheeseFuller; A fuller made with a face resembling a wedge of cheese, enabling one to gently neck in, or reduce the thickness of a bar.

[attachment=13414] [attachment=13413]

Cold chisel: For marking out and cutting steel cold, if used on hot steel they will need re heat treating. The radius on the cutting edge enables location and the ability to cut curves.

[attachment=13417] [attachment=13418]

Cold Set: A cutting tool for nicking bars cold prior to their being broken or cut. The cutting edge is radiused, and the body is wider/thicker than the HOT SET (In US called Cold cut if hafted. From Frank Turley)

[attachment=13419] [attachment=13420] [attachment=13421]

Collaring Tongs or Bow pliers; are used solely for the opening, closing and fitting of collars to a pair or cluster of bars to act as a permanent fastening.

[attachment=13425]

Cone or Mandrel; Used to set and correct rings after they have been formed, and they come in various sizes.

[attachment=13428]

Creasng Iron or Creaser (From Frank Turley): A specific type of Fuller, Used for putting in shaped grooves in horseshoes where the nails fit.

Domer; US term (see Rivet snap) From Frank Turley

Drifts; Are used to open up punched holes, or to form a taper, or a finished size

Barrel drift; Used to widen punched holes to a finished size, they can be knocked through due to the
taper on both ends

[attachment=13447]

Taper or Carrot drift; Used to widen punched holes, leaving a taper in the hole useful for handled tools.

[attachment=13448] [attachment=13449] [attachment=13450]

Flatter; as its name suggests, is employed in making the surface texture of the iron work piece flat or free from blemishes left by the hand hammer. Can be hand held, Handled, or Rod/Wire handled, the wire handle allows for better seating onto the workpiece, supporting the flatter loosely and not transmitting shockwaves as a rigid handle can do.

[attachment=13422]

Fullers, Fullering Irons or Creasing Irons or Creasers; having radiused blades, are used for necking in or swiftly drawing down a bar. Can also be individual, Having a profiled finish to put in shaped grooves ie as in horseshoes, centre lines on blades to lighten and strengthen them, or edging features.

If half round, fullers are asked for by their diameter in inches, Fullers are not always half round, they can take various shapes, For example a British Farrier may use a Fuller, or Fullering iron to put the nail grooves in a horseshoe, In the US, the tool is often called a Creaser or Creasing Iron for putting in the "Nail Crease" in the shoe. Sometimes we put it in lengthwise or crosswise sharp bottomed fuller marks for design elements, borders etc. From Frank Turley

[attachment=13423] [attachment=13451]

Hack; (US term) see Side Set From Frank Turley

Halfpenny Snub End Tool: For rounding up a Halfpenny Snub end, unfortunately only useful for a specific size.

[attachment=13424]

Hammer: For general work a ball pein hammer of 11/2-2 lbs is advisable. An identical spare should always be kept handy in case of emergency.

Hand Square: A Blacksmith's square for use with hot metals.

Hardie: Fits in the square or 'hardie' hole in the anvil and is used for cutting hot iron at the anvil.

[attachment=13427] [attachment=13452]

Hearth: Sometimes referred to as Forge; fired on coke beans, coal or other fuels. Forced draught from a fan or blower, produces intense forging and welding temperatures quickly. No real substitute for this original equipment.

Hickey (US): is an old term for Scroll Wrench From Frank Turley.

Horns: Either fitting in the vice or in the hardie hole, allow the bending or adjusting of, in particular, scrolls and similarly shaped bars.

[attachment=13429]

Hot Set or Hot Cut; A finer edged tool than the cold set, and used for cutting off hot metal, again hand held, handled or rodded

[attachment=13430]

Leg Vice: A Blacksmith's Vice designed to withstand general abuse, heavy bending and sledge-hammering. The shock is taken on its leg set into the floor. This is not a precision instrument and should not be likened to an Engineer's Vice.

Monkey Tool: Used for shouldering up a swaged tenon, the elongated sight hole being simply to ensure that the tenon does not foul inside the Monkey.

[attachment=13432]

Punches; Round punch Used to make round holes in hot metal, Square punch Used to make square holes in hot metal,
These can be hand held, handled, or rodded.(wire handled)

[attachment=13433] [attachment=13446]

Rivet set and snap; Can be one combined or two separate tools used to Set up the rivet, (close all the pieces together prior to riveting) and the Snap used to finish the dome head of the rivet, it can also be used to support a domed head when riveting to secure the pieces together. (Domer is a US term From Frank Turley)

[attachment=13434]

Rope Tools: Mould or swage iron in such a fashion that when twisted the bar will resemble a length of rope. Limited range of uses

[attachment=13435] [attachment=13436]

Set Hammer: Not a hammer as such, but is a tool used struck by a sledge to produce a very definite square shoulder on a stepped forging such as a tenon on a heel. To drive the set hammer well into the corner, the best results are gained by directing the blow diagonally, hitting the corner of the head.

[attachment=13437] [attachment=13453]

Scrolling Tongs or Round nose pliers; are used chiefly in making Scrolls, holding the bar on to the Scroll Tool and subsequently adjusting the tip of the scroll.

[attachment=13431]

Scroll Tool or Scroll Jig: A former or shaper on which to reproduce a number of identical scroll motifs. Note the ends are elevated to allow starting the scroll before pulling it around the rest of the form using scroll wrenches or scrolling tongs to control the curving. You will also see one that is less tighter than the others, this is for snub end scrolls that will not fit into the tighter rolled scrolling tools.

[attachment=13438]

Scroll Wrench: Is in effect a pair of horns on a handle, so that in conjunction with another such wrench or anvil horns one can adjust the shape of scrolls or make light bends. Hickey is an old US term for Scroll Wrench From Frank Turley.

[attachment=13439]

Side Set, Hack (US): Used for squaring up a shoulder prior to using the set hammer. (Hack From Frank Turley)

[attachment=13440] [attachment=13454]

Slack Tub see also Bosh; A water tank attached to the front of the hearth for quenching hot metal. (Slack tub or slack water; From Frank Turley)

Slide Valve; Used to control the air flow into the forge, and is fitted between the blower/fan and the tuyere or tue iron. The one illustrated is fitted to the ash dump for a bottom blast forge, and the tue has not yet been fitted

[attachment=13444] [attachment=13445]

Spring Tool or Veining Tool: A tool designed as a multi-purpose press invaluable for ribbing, veining and raising Acanthus leaves, making obsolete a whole range of Stakes. Not only making leaves more quickly and accurately, but also is used for decorating sheet and making rosettes etc.

[attachment=13441]

Swage, swedge sometimes, rhyming with sledge. From Frank Turley: Top and bottom tools for forging a round section. You can also have square swages. Handled, rodded or hand held top tools, the lower part fits in the hardie hole and can be used seperately, for instance when forging half round sections for ball collars, or backing for when forge welding bundles together to help keep the strands in close proximity making it easier to fuse them together. Specified by diameter produced in inches

Swages can also take other shapes than a near-half round. Again, in farriery, we sometimes swage light horseshoe stock by driving it into a bottom swage that has a sort of double-vee indent side by side. This leaves a raised carrot shape almost at the centre. When the stock is drawn through and turned over, you get the reverse image, a nail groove a little eccentric from centre. I have often used a bottom "shallow swage" (home made) for giving a Suffolk latch handle a nice appearance. (From Frank Turley)


[attachment=13442]

Swage Block: Rectangular block of Iron with a variety of shapes around its periphery for swaging on. Also has various shapes of holes through its face which act as bolsters. Must be used on a stand.

Tongs; are used for holding hot pieces of metal and are made in a variety of sizes and strengths strictly according to the size and shape of bar the Blacksmith intends to hold. It is of paramount importance that the correct size of tong is used in each particular application or the bar may well jump out of the tong and an accident occur. The use of one tong for a variety of jobs is therefore inviting trouble.

Tuyere or Tue Iron; In the hearth where the air input meets the fuel it can be plain hole(s) in a plate, or in a water cooled jacket.

Twisting Wrench: Simply a device for imparting torque to a bar to give it the twisted effect, second only to the scroll in its importance as a decorative design.

[attachment=13443]

Veining Tool (See Spring Tool)

[attachment=13441]

I hope you find this useful when looking for, talking about, or using new tools.

As you can see, many of these traditional tools need a striker to assist the 'smith to be used correctly, hence the development of the new alternatives which do the same tasks as the traditional tools, but can be operated by one person, many only needing a simple adaptation, others being newer tools like the Blacksmiths helper or Smithin' Magician and guillotine tools etc.

That's progress and innovation, and that is what the craft is all about.]]> <![CDATA[Advertising ?]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5524 Tue, 09 Mar 2010 16:36:42 -0700 http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5524
Quote from the home page.
"The Metal Artist Forum operates on a speedy, dedicated server thanks to the generous donations from some of our members."]]>
Quote from the home page.
"The Metal Artist Forum operates on a speedy, dedicated server thanks to the generous donations from some of our members."]]> <![CDATA[Electrical Question ?]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5523 Mon, 08 Mar 2010 13:58:39 -0700 http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5523 I would like to control the speed of one of my angle grinders. I would like to know if anyone has wired up a dimmer switch to operate a plug. I was thinking perhaps to put a duplex plug and a rotary dimmer in a gang box and run a cord to plug into the wall from that, then you could plug the grinder into the dimmer controlled plug in the gang box.
Has anyone ever done this or is this a warm up to a Darwin Award ?Big Grin
Thanks.Beer]]> I would like to control the speed of one of my angle grinders. I would like to know if anyone has wired up a dimmer switch to operate a plug. I was thinking perhaps to put a duplex plug and a rotary dimmer in a gang box and run a cord to plug into the wall from that, then you could plug the grinder into the dimmer controlled plug in the gang box.
Has anyone ever done this or is this a warm up to a Darwin Award ?Big Grin
Thanks.Beer]]> <![CDATA[Making the base part of “Emergence”]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5522 Mon, 08 Mar 2010 08:03:10 -0700 http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5522 "Emergence", was a big project, so I’m breaking up the process into several parts. The base was the first part I made, and the first attempt was a failure. I did not realize that the stem portion needed to be bent into its final almost-upright position before closing up and silver-soldering the form. One very large piece of bronze wasted. Doh!

The material is 1/16″ silicon bronze, which is much more resistant to forming than the 16 gauge brass that I’m used to. I had to devise a way to bend that neck, something that could exert a great amount of force in just the right way. What I came up with is a large block of maple, carved out in the shape that I wanted to have the piece conform to. a clamping device was added to hold the piece securely. There’s a 1/2″ bolt going all the way through the block to provide the clamping force. The pictures below show how it was used. The steel rod extended out about six feet, and I had to push down on the end with all my weight to bend the metal as shown.

[attachment=13353] [attachment=13354] [attachment=13355]

After bending, I hammered out the kinks with the piece still clamped in the jig. Then the piece was annealed and formed on a cone-shaped block as shown below, and on a variety of stakes. The pictures below are actually further along in the process. I had to bend, anneal, hammer-form, anneal, several times before I was able to get the desired shape.

[attachment=13356] [attachment=13357] [attachment=13358]

Once the piece was closed up, it could be silver-soldered. This was done in several stages, as it is impossible to close up the entire seam all at once. It has to be closed in one place, clamped and soldered, then closed some more, clamped and soldered, and so forth. The curves in the neck were done after the piece was silver-soldered. For the larger part near the bottom I clamped the piece in in the jig and put a piece of 1″ black poly pipe over the stem, then a piece of larger steel pipe over that to do the bending. The smaller part of the neck I was able to bend by hand. In the last picture the piece is mostly done, polished up some and ready for some final planishing.

I have a spin-off in mind for this (since I went to all that trouble I’d hate to only make one): A lamp base, with a hand-blown glass shade.

[attachment=13359] [attachment=13360]]]> "Emergence", was a big project, so I’m breaking up the process into several parts. The base was the first part I made, and the first attempt was a failure. I did not realize that the stem portion needed to be bent into its final almost-upright position before closing up and silver-soldering the form. One very large piece of bronze wasted. Doh!

The material is 1/16″ silicon bronze, which is much more resistant to forming than the 16 gauge brass that I’m used to. I had to devise a way to bend that neck, something that could exert a great amount of force in just the right way. What I came up with is a large block of maple, carved out in the shape that I wanted to have the piece conform to. a clamping device was added to hold the piece securely. There’s a 1/2″ bolt going all the way through the block to provide the clamping force. The pictures below show how it was used. The steel rod extended out about six feet, and I had to push down on the end with all my weight to bend the metal as shown.

[attachment=13353] [attachment=13354] [attachment=13355]

After bending, I hammered out the kinks with the piece still clamped in the jig. Then the piece was annealed and formed on a cone-shaped block as shown below, and on a variety of stakes. The pictures below are actually further along in the process. I had to bend, anneal, hammer-form, anneal, several times before I was able to get the desired shape.

[attachment=13356] [attachment=13357] [attachment=13358]

Once the piece was closed up, it could be silver-soldered. This was done in several stages, as it is impossible to close up the entire seam all at once. It has to be closed in one place, clamped and soldered, then closed some more, clamped and soldered, and so forth. The curves in the neck were done after the piece was silver-soldered. For the larger part near the bottom I clamped the piece in in the jig and put a piece of 1″ black poly pipe over the stem, then a piece of larger steel pipe over that to do the bending. The smaller part of the neck I was able to bend by hand. In the last picture the piece is mostly done, polished up some and ready for some final planishing.

I have a spin-off in mind for this (since I went to all that trouble I’d hate to only make one): A lamp base, with a hand-blown glass shade.

[attachment=13359] [attachment=13360]]]> <![CDATA[A historic metal forge destroyed by a fire.GROVE CITY, Pa]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5520 Sun, 07 Mar 2010 18:13:24 -0700 http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5520 Quote:GROVE CITY, Pa. — A historic metal forge that made ashtrays for the ill-fated German airship the Hindenburg and did custom work for Walt Disney has been destroyed by a fire.
Fire destroys Historic Pa Forge

Quote:Saturday's fire at the Wendell August Forge workshop and gift shop is believed to have started in the workshop, where lacquer was sprayed on bronze pieces such as awards and trophies, spokeswoman Danielle Elderkin said. All employees and customers escaped unharmed.
Doh!]]> Quote:GROVE CITY, Pa. — A historic metal forge that made ashtrays for the ill-fated German airship the Hindenburg and did custom work for Walt Disney has been destroyed by a fire.
Fire destroys Historic Pa Forge

Quote:Saturday's fire at the Wendell August Forge workshop and gift shop is believed to have started in the workshop, where lacquer was sprayed on bronze pieces such as awards and trophies, spokeswoman Danielle Elderkin said. All employees and customers escaped unharmed.
Doh!]]> <![CDATA[Mastercrafts Blacksmithing on BBC iPlayer]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5519 Sun, 07 Mar 2010 07:16:43 -0700 http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5519
the link to the programme is:-
http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b00...ksmithing/

Enjoy

Moderators, this was the most relevant topic i could find, if this is in the wrong place please move it to the correct one, many thanks]]>
the link to the programme is:-
http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b00...ksmithing/

Enjoy

Moderators, this was the most relevant topic i could find, if this is in the wrong place please move it to the correct one, many thanks]]>