http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/ Thu, 28 Aug 2008 19:35:57 -0600 MyBB http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=3235 Thu, 28 Aug 2008 09:23:33 -0600 mdlbldrmatt135 http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=3235
I've been looking into building or buying a forge to make parts to supplement my woodworking. Decided to finally Register after lurking for awhile.

As far as making smaller items I have access to some Chromemoly steel pieces at work. would they work as a Anvil?]]>
I've been looking into building or buying a forge to make parts to supplement my woodworking. Decided to finally Register after lurking for awhile.

As far as making smaller items I have access to some Chromemoly steel pieces at work. would they work as a Anvil?]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=3234 Thu, 28 Aug 2008 08:31:12 -0600 alex b. http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=3234 finally getting around to trying some fire place tools, and very much appretiate the help so far.
i am wondering what you all use for a finish on them? i figured the boiled linseed, wax, turpentine and jap dry was the mix, but does that give of nasty fumes and smoke when the poker or tongs are in contact with the hot coals/wood? i don't see any were a description on what to use.
thanks for your time and help.]]> finally getting around to trying some fire place tools, and very much appretiate the help so far.
i am wondering what you all use for a finish on them? i figured the boiled linseed, wax, turpentine and jap dry was the mix, but does that give of nasty fumes and smoke when the poker or tongs are in contact with the hot coals/wood? i don't see any were a description on what to use.
thanks for your time and help.]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=3233 Wed, 27 Aug 2008 21:04:02 -0600 davidklehn http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=3233 http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=3232 Wed, 27 Aug 2008 21:01:45 -0600 davidklehn http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=3232 http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=3231 Wed, 27 Aug 2008 19:12:30 -0600 Jimbo Hotep http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=3231 I live in Norwood MN with my wife Molly and 9 mo daughter Nora, i am about to begin my journey into blacksmithing, i bought my anvil at an auction a few weeks ago and last week i met a blacksmith who is willing to share with me his time and knowledge, i feel so lucky right now
I have been TIG welding for ten years and i've welded bulk cryogenic storage containers, asphalt reheat systems, bicycle frames (waterford precision cycles, standard bmx, gunnar,and salsa frames) parts for Harley Davidson, Mercury marine, Brigs Stratton, Volvo Penta,.... now i am a working foreman for Super Radiator Coils in chaska mn where i have ASME certifications including a nuclear stamp certification.
I look forward to reading these forums and posting regularly,
take care



Jimbo Hotep


(Jimbo Hotep is my gamertag for xbox live)]]> I live in Norwood MN with my wife Molly and 9 mo daughter Nora, i am about to begin my journey into blacksmithing, i bought my anvil at an auction a few weeks ago and last week i met a blacksmith who is willing to share with me his time and knowledge, i feel so lucky right now
I have been TIG welding for ten years and i've welded bulk cryogenic storage containers, asphalt reheat systems, bicycle frames (waterford precision cycles, standard bmx, gunnar,and salsa frames) parts for Harley Davidson, Mercury marine, Brigs Stratton, Volvo Penta,.... now i am a working foreman for Super Radiator Coils in chaska mn where i have ASME certifications including a nuclear stamp certification.
I look forward to reading these forums and posting regularly,
take care



Jimbo Hotep


(Jimbo Hotep is my gamertag for xbox live)]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=3230 Wed, 27 Aug 2008 16:59:25 -0600 Radharc http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=3230
I don't know how much interest this may hold for anyone here, or who might be able to use this info, but I learned something really interesting this week. At work, we design, build, and install steel stair systems, sometimes painted, sometimes powder coated, and sometimes galvanized. We recently had a set of railings galvanized and received an unpleasant shock when we got them back. We'd welded the 1-1/4" Schedule 40 pipe the same way we always do, then ground the welds smooth, etc. When we got them back galvanized, the welds had somehow mysteriously 'popped' up and were visually and physically obvious, as the before and after pics below show. It was a radical WTF?!?!? moment.

[attachment=7824]

[attachment=7825]

[attachment=7826]

As you can see, it was WEIRD. Like voodoo weird. Did a mess of research, talked with the galvanizer and AGA, etc., and it turns out that zinc has a great affinity for silicon. We'd been using Lincoln Super Arc L-56 .045 MIG wire, which is classified as a high silicon wire. Silicon and manganese are added as deoxidizers, to help the wire blast through mill scale, dirt, oil, rust, etc. I was like WTF, we've been using this wire forever, and had NEVER had this problem with galvanized rails before. Then I remembered, like 6 or 8 months ago, the welding supply place sent my runner back with a different wire, with him saying 'Oh this is the replacement wire, just as good as the other stuff', which it turned out to be, except for the high silicon / galvanizing issue. As it turns out, zinc loves silicon SO much that what it does in the bath is build up 3 to 5 times as thick on it, hence the weldment pops.

So, what we're doing in response is I again did a bunch of research, and Lincoln recommends Super Arc L-50, which is a medium silicon wire, also, I found this Esab Spoolarc 65, which is supposed to be low silicon. I've ordered a roll of each, and we're going to do an experimental 'test' railing, and get it galvanized, to see how much difference those two wires make.

Just thought I'd pass this on. Who knows who might find it valuable info... ]]>
I don't know how much interest this may hold for anyone here, or who might be able to use this info, but I learned something really interesting this week. At work, we design, build, and install steel stair systems, sometimes painted, sometimes powder coated, and sometimes galvanized. We recently had a set of railings galvanized and received an unpleasant shock when we got them back. We'd welded the 1-1/4" Schedule 40 pipe the same way we always do, then ground the welds smooth, etc. When we got them back galvanized, the welds had somehow mysteriously 'popped' up and were visually and physically obvious, as the before and after pics below show. It was a radical WTF?!?!? moment.

[attachment=7824]

[attachment=7825]

[attachment=7826]

As you can see, it was WEIRD. Like voodoo weird. Did a mess of research, talked with the galvanizer and AGA, etc., and it turns out that zinc has a great affinity for silicon. We'd been using Lincoln Super Arc L-56 .045 MIG wire, which is classified as a high silicon wire. Silicon and manganese are added as deoxidizers, to help the wire blast through mill scale, dirt, oil, rust, etc. I was like WTF, we've been using this wire forever, and had NEVER had this problem with galvanized rails before. Then I remembered, like 6 or 8 months ago, the welding supply place sent my runner back with a different wire, with him saying 'Oh this is the replacement wire, just as good as the other stuff', which it turned out to be, except for the high silicon / galvanizing issue. As it turns out, zinc loves silicon SO much that what it does in the bath is build up 3 to 5 times as thick on it, hence the weldment pops.

So, what we're doing in response is I again did a bunch of research, and Lincoln recommends Super Arc L-50, which is a medium silicon wire, also, I found this Esab Spoolarc 65, which is supposed to be low silicon. I've ordered a roll of each, and we're going to do an experimental 'test' railing, and get it galvanized, to see how much difference those two wires make.

Just thought I'd pass this on. Who knows who might find it valuable info... ]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=3229 Tue, 26 Aug 2008 20:08:35 -0600 alex b. http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=3229
made from 3" water pipe, 16 inches tall,{ it is kind of large, but it is going on a large 16 person diner table with some flower arrangement, thats the plan anyway.} and tig welded the bottom with the same pipe made flat.
filled with about six pounds of pitch, half German red and half medium green from northwoods.[attachment=7821]

chased it and then got it warm and the pitch slide out. had to let enough of the sides melt out to let an air in, cause a vacuum was formed behind the pitch as it slid out-some thing to remember for sculpture work in the future.

cleaned it in half cup of this [attachment=7822] to a gallon of water, heated to about 140 degrees for 10 minutes. have to neutralize with half box baking soda to 3 gallons water after pickle solution.{cold is fine}.

then applied liver of sulfur... and whala....[attachment=7823]with clear coat spray can]]>
made from 3" water pipe, 16 inches tall,{ it is kind of large, but it is going on a large 16 person diner table with some flower arrangement, thats the plan anyway.} and tig welded the bottom with the same pipe made flat.
filled with about six pounds of pitch, half German red and half medium green from northwoods.[attachment=7821]

chased it and then got it warm and the pitch slide out. had to let enough of the sides melt out to let an air in, cause a vacuum was formed behind the pitch as it slid out-some thing to remember for sculpture work in the future.

cleaned it in half cup of this [attachment=7822] to a gallon of water, heated to about 140 degrees for 10 minutes. have to neutralize with half box baking soda to 3 gallons water after pickle solution.{cold is fine}.

then applied liver of sulfur... and whala....[attachment=7823]with clear coat spray can]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=3228 Tue, 26 Aug 2008 19:49:58 -0600 565Customz http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=3228
JC]]>
JC]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=3227 Tue, 26 Aug 2008 16:41:55 -0600 Vermontsmith http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=3227 http://acblacksmiths.org/ I'll be there-should be a good time!

-Judson]]> http://acblacksmiths.org/ I'll be there-should be a good time!

-Judson]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=3221 Mon, 25 Aug 2008 14:38:35 -0600 Scratch http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=3221
What I'm looking for is any tips or tricks you all might know of when bidding designing or building railings. This is an indoor railing, no curves, all straight pieces. Fairly basic, and there's about 60 feet of it. He will be designing the layout of the railing and will be in charge of making sure it meets all codes, and understands that if it doesn't... it's on him.

I'm not sure how to estimate this either. I talked to one company and they said they like to price it at about 1000.00 per 15 feet of the most basic railing they do.
Painted black.

Does this sound about right?


Any help would be appreciated...!]]>
What I'm looking for is any tips or tricks you all might know of when bidding designing or building railings. This is an indoor railing, no curves, all straight pieces. Fairly basic, and there's about 60 feet of it. He will be designing the layout of the railing and will be in charge of making sure it meets all codes, and understands that if it doesn't... it's on him.

I'm not sure how to estimate this either. I talked to one company and they said they like to price it at about 1000.00 per 15 feet of the most basic railing they do.
Painted black.

Does this sound about right?


Any help would be appreciated...!]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=3219 Mon, 25 Aug 2008 08:07:01 -0600 g4x4xgeoff http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=3219
Go out to this morning to hose it off and empty out the gear, and what do I find? a couple chips in our prop.

I'd like to try and add some shape back to the prop by welding some metal on, I figure if I can get it to work, it's a hell of a lot cheaper than a new prop.

It's cast aluminum, and suggestions to an electrode selection for stick?]]>
Go out to this morning to hose it off and empty out the gear, and what do I find? a couple chips in our prop.

I'd like to try and add some shape back to the prop by welding some metal on, I figure if I can get it to work, it's a hell of a lot cheaper than a new prop.

It's cast aluminum, and suggestions to an electrode selection for stick?]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=3217 Sun, 24 Aug 2008 01:21:34 -0600 MetalGirl http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=3217
Anyone live near or somewhat close to me? I am in sacramento I have a great little shop here plasma,saws,grinders,welders you name I think I have it! But I would love to get together with fellow welder guys and girls out here to do stuff with....Where is everyone?
Welder Girl.]]>
Anyone live near or somewhat close to me? I am in sacramento I have a great little shop here plasma,saws,grinders,welders you name I think I have it! But I would love to get together with fellow welder guys and girls out here to do stuff with....Where is everyone?
Welder Girl.]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=3216 Sun, 24 Aug 2008 01:14:08 -0600 forging-fool http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=3216 http://www.thersa.org/events/vision/visi...-robinson and watch Sir Ken Robinson’s talk. It concerns what all of us on this forum are about, creativity. I think he is inspirational and would like to know what others think about his ideas.]]> http://www.thersa.org/events/vision/visi...-robinson and watch Sir Ken Robinson’s talk. It concerns what all of us on this forum are about, creativity. I think he is inspirational and would like to know what others think about his ideas.]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=3215 Sat, 23 Aug 2008 16:16:10 -0600 PTsideshow http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=3215 The first is a air angle sander with the hook and loop sanding pads. 2" dia. in the neighbor hood of 15,000 rpms. Comes with a 2 year limited warrenty for $14.00 and change.
[attachment=7813]

The other item isn't exactly as described it isn't a flow meter. it is a digital pressure regulator that can be placed at the tool to check on the pressure reaching you tools.
[attachment=7814]

It seems to work well and thats after I dropped it, trying to install the quick connect fittings [Doh] it hit the drive and no problem. was $19.00 and change.
]]> The first is a air angle sander with the hook and loop sanding pads. 2" dia. in the neighbor hood of 15,000 rpms. Comes with a 2 year limited warrenty for $14.00 and change.
[attachment=7813]

The other item isn't exactly as described it isn't a flow meter. it is a digital pressure regulator that can be placed at the tool to check on the pressure reaching you tools.
[attachment=7814]

It seems to work well and thats after I dropped it, trying to install the quick connect fittings [Doh] it hit the drive and no problem. was $19.00 and change.
]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=3220 Sat, 23 Aug 2008 16:16:10 -0600 Kerry Pinkerton http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=3220

What is the attachment for the pad? Male, female, size?

A few years back I started noticing how much better my metalshaping mentor Dutch Comstock's air tools were than mine. I started paying attention and realized that his were either Snap-On, Blue Point, Ingersol Rand, or Chicago Pueumatic. He's got this magnificent supply house near him (Brown and Randall, East Herkimer, NY) that has EVERYTHING. I save my pennies and every year I get a couple new air tools when I'm up there.

Yeah, they cost 5-10 times as much but are MUCH, MUCH more powerful and should last a lifetime. I don't live next door to a HF and when one of my HF things breaks and I need it having to stop work, drive into town, etc makes that cheap price less cheap.

That's not to say I won't get one but it won't be a primary tool.

One other thing I noticed at Dutchs is his air lines. He uses the same hose as I do (3/8 bore Goodyear from HF) but instead of the 1/4" connectors he uses 3/8" connectors. Compare the bore sizes and you can see the huge opening difference. Not only does that directly relate to air flow but reducing the venturi effect really cuts down on water condensation at the tools. (Humid Alabama) Dutch has some adapters so it's easy to switch over to a 1/4" restriction and the difference in preformance is HUGE!!! Even on offshore tools. The higher volume of airflow allows lower PSI which is better on the air tools and keeps the compressor off too. Dutch runs a 2 stage IR at 120 and you don't hear it come on that much. I run my 2 stage Quincy at 150 and it seems like it's on all the time I'm using air.

The 3/8" fittings are considerably more expensive but HF sells them too and I'm in the process of switching over.

Just my 2 cents.]]>

What is the attachment for the pad? Male, female, size?

A few years back I started noticing how much better my metalshaping mentor Dutch Comstock's air tools were than mine. I started paying attention and realized that his were either Snap-On, Blue Point, Ingersol Rand, or Chicago Pueumatic. He's got this magnificent supply house near him (Brown and Randall, East Herkimer, NY) that has EVERYTHING. I save my pennies and every year I get a couple new air tools when I'm up there.

Yeah, they cost 5-10 times as much but are MUCH, MUCH more powerful and should last a lifetime. I don't live next door to a HF and when one of my HF things breaks and I need it having to stop work, drive into town, etc makes that cheap price less cheap.

That's not to say I won't get one but it won't be a primary tool.

One other thing I noticed at Dutchs is his air lines. He uses the same hose as I do (3/8 bore Goodyear from HF) but instead of the 1/4" connectors he uses 3/8" connectors. Compare the bore sizes and you can see the huge opening difference. Not only does that directly relate to air flow but reducing the venturi effect really cuts down on water condensation at the tools. (Humid Alabama) Dutch has some adapters so it's easy to switch over to a 1/4" restriction and the difference in preformance is HUGE!!! Even on offshore tools. The higher volume of airflow allows lower PSI which is better on the air tools and keeps the compressor off too. Dutch runs a 2 stage IR at 120 and you don't hear it come on that much. I run my 2 stage Quincy at 150 and it seems like it's on all the time I'm using air.

The 3/8" fittings are considerably more expensive but HF sells them too and I'm in the process of switching over.

Just my 2 cents.]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=3214 Sat, 23 Aug 2008 10:12:08 -0600 Radharc http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=3214
]]>
]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=3213 Sat, 23 Aug 2008 10:09:45 -0600 Radharc http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=3213

]]>

]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=3212 Sat, 23 Aug 2008 10:07:56 -0600 Radharc http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=3212
]]>
]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=3211 Sat, 23 Aug 2008 10:06:25 -0600 Radharc http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=3211
]]>
]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=3210 Sat, 23 Aug 2008 10:03:03 -0600 Radharc http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=3210
Haven't posted much in this area on MAF, although I've made silver jewelry for over 30 years. Just not enough hours in the day, seems like. Anyways, so, here's a post.

This is a set I made a few years ago, pendant and earrings, using heat texturing and fusing. No solder was harmed (or even used) in the making of these, except the loops and wire on the rear of the earrings. It's not quite reticulation, but something akin. These were a gift to a dear friend. Comments, etc., welcome.

]]>
Haven't posted much in this area on MAF, although I've made silver jewelry for over 30 years. Just not enough hours in the day, seems like. Anyways, so, here's a post.

This is a set I made a few years ago, pendant and earrings, using heat texturing and fusing. No solder was harmed (or even used) in the making of these, except the loops and wire on the rear of the earrings. It's not quite reticulation, but something akin. These were a gift to a dear friend. Comments, etc., welcome.

]]>