http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/ Thu, 29 Jul 2010 16:56:47 -0600 MyBB http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5988 Thu, 29 Jul 2010 09:40:54 -0600 http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5988
I've only banged out simple knife shapes from spike so I haven't spent too much time working metal. Tips on shaping the point would be appreciated. Could I use a piece of rebar for this?

Thanks.

---

Found this which should do the trick

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMITV4GdvK8]]>
I've only banged out simple knife shapes from spike so I haven't spent too much time working metal. Tips on shaping the point would be appreciated. Could I use a piece of rebar for this?

Thanks.

---

Found this which should do the trick

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMITV4GdvK8]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5987 Thu, 29 Jul 2010 08:16:19 -0600 http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5987 http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5986 Wed, 28 Jul 2010 20:25:49 -0600 http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5986 http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5985 Tue, 27 Jul 2010 18:25:22 -0600 http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5985 Son of the founder accused of looting the company!

]]> Son of the founder accused of looting the company!

]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5984 Tue, 27 Jul 2010 11:40:00 -0600 http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5984 The blacksmith's name is Scott Hamlin. I am sure the picture won't do it justice.
I hope you like it as much as I did.
[attachment=14811]]]> The blacksmith's name is Scott Hamlin. I am sure the picture won't do it justice.
I hope you like it as much as I did.
[attachment=14811]]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5983 Tue, 27 Jul 2010 09:24:34 -0600 http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5983 The balde is 5160 with a mild steel guard, ironwood and deer antler handle. The sheaf is my first with a snap. Im getting a little better at sheaves, especially after I went to the leather store and got some new gadgets.

[attachment=14810]]]> The balde is 5160 with a mild steel guard, ironwood and deer antler handle. The sheaf is my first with a snap. Im getting a little better at sheaves, especially after I went to the leather store and got some new gadgets.

[attachment=14810]]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5982 Mon, 26 Jul 2010 21:11:26 -0600 http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5982
Basic dimensions -12" wide x 8" high x 2-1/2 " deep. The basket horizontals are 3/8" square bar and the verticals are 1/4" square bar.

The copper liner just sets in so my man Woodtick can remove them to get at the mounting screws. The design has input from the client, Woodtick and myself. He's been working on this house for 2-1/2 years. Either it's a big house or he's slow. But hey, he's gotten me several commissions already so I don't care if he ever gets done.

The patina on the basket is Black Magic from S-N (mill scale removed by soaking in vinegar) three coats Permalac, black wax, and finally some African Bronze Gilders Paste highlighting on the leaves. The copper is Traditional Blue, three coats Permalac and a coat of blue wax. The blue looks kind of green in the picture but in real life it's blue.

Maybe we can get Woodtick to post a pic after installation, but the clients really really want to remain anonymous.

[attachment=14808][attachment=14809]]]>
Basic dimensions -12" wide x 8" high x 2-1/2 " deep. The basket horizontals are 3/8" square bar and the verticals are 1/4" square bar.

The copper liner just sets in so my man Woodtick can remove them to get at the mounting screws. The design has input from the client, Woodtick and myself. He's been working on this house for 2-1/2 years. Either it's a big house or he's slow. But hey, he's gotten me several commissions already so I don't care if he ever gets done.

The patina on the basket is Black Magic from S-N (mill scale removed by soaking in vinegar) three coats Permalac, black wax, and finally some African Bronze Gilders Paste highlighting on the leaves. The copper is Traditional Blue, three coats Permalac and a coat of blue wax. The blue looks kind of green in the picture but in real life it's blue.

Maybe we can get Woodtick to post a pic after installation, but the clients really really want to remain anonymous.

[attachment=14808][attachment=14809]]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5981 Mon, 26 Jul 2010 05:56:39 -0600 http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5981 I am new to this forum all over from Nepal. I have just finished my high school and confused about what to do now....]]> I am new to this forum all over from Nepal. I have just finished my high school and confused about what to do now....]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5980 Sun, 25 Jul 2010 13:07:18 -0600 http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5980 ]]> ]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5979 Sat, 24 Jul 2010 18:46:47 -0600 http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5979
For when the muse is being, stubborn
Design-O-Matic PDF download

Enjoy!
]]>
For when the muse is being, stubborn
Design-O-Matic PDF download

Enjoy!
]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5978 Sat, 24 Jul 2010 18:36:47 -0600 http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5978
Here are a number of downloadables of patinas in full color they are all relatively safe chemical patina's. They are probably going to be part of the DVD, but in PDF format for free downloads.

Basic Green Patina

Buried Patinas

Fumed Patinas

Heat Patinas

Japanese Patinas

Liver of Sulfur Patina

Resist Patinas

Patina Poster

Enjoy
]]>
Here are a number of downloadables of patinas in full color they are all relatively safe chemical patina's. They are probably going to be part of the DVD, but in PDF format for free downloads.

Basic Green Patina

Buried Patinas

Fumed Patinas

Heat Patinas

Japanese Patinas

Liver of Sulfur Patina

Resist Patinas

Patina Poster

Enjoy
]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5977 Sat, 24 Jul 2010 14:50:41 -0600 http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5977
I did add some telescoping handles and casters as I wanted it to be easily moved.

Other than that it's unchanged from when I got it.

For you guys who have purchased coal forges or sold them, what would be a reasonable price to ask for this? There's not a whole lot of data out there (ebay, craig's list etc.). I did find one supplier that has new ones that range from $600 to $800.

[attachment=14795] [attachment=14796] [attachment=14797]
[attachment=14798] [attachment=14799]]]>
I did add some telescoping handles and casters as I wanted it to be easily moved.

Other than that it's unchanged from when I got it.

For you guys who have purchased coal forges or sold them, what would be a reasonable price to ask for this? There's not a whole lot of data out there (ebay, craig's list etc.). I did find one supplier that has new ones that range from $600 to $800.

[attachment=14795] [attachment=14796] [attachment=14797]
[attachment=14798] [attachment=14799]]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5976 Sat, 24 Jul 2010 12:41:51 -0600 http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5976 Thought I'd let Chucky play with it first!
Guns

[attachment=14794]]]> Thought I'd let Chucky play with it first!
Guns

[attachment=14794]]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5972 Sat, 24 Jul 2010 07:36:24 -0600 http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5972 Safety first: Before starting handling corrosive acids, you must take all the precautions and read the safety rules about handling acid. Do it in a ventilated area, keep away from heat and open fire, when diluting acid always pour acid into water, never pour water into acid. Wear eye protection, avoid contact with the skin etc. The list is long but very important.

Hi to all,
I am going to demonstrate here how I do deep groove etchings on architectural items such as door handles and Judaica items. The basics of etching is very simple. The metal is etched only in the exposed areas that contact the acid. The masked area is painted with an acid resistant material that insulates the metal from the acid. Here is a pic of an etched item
[attachment=14778]

The resist: The resist that I use is Asphalt Lacquer which is made of tar dissolved in mineral spirit (Turpentine). The resist can be applied by brushing, spraying over a mask or by dispensing. Here is the dispenser that I made.
[attachment=14781]

The dispenser is assembled from a low air pressure regulator, a miniature needle valve, a pneumatic foot switch, some tubing and a disposable syringe attached to an adaptor.
Filling the syringe with the resist.
[attachment=14779]

I cut the syringe plunger and attach it to the adaptor.
[attachment=14780]

Painting the resist: When I started doing etched handles I did it with a small brush- it took hours. By using the dispensing method the process is much faster, yet each part is individually painted which keeps it an artistic item. The line thickness can be controlled by changing the needle size, the needle tip and by changing the pressure and the air flow in the dispenser.
The part is held in a bearing housing
[attachment=14783]

The pattern is painted using the foot switch to release the resist. The painting is exactly like using a fountain pen.
[attachment=14782]

After painting and drying:
[attachment=14784][attachment=14785]

The etching process:
Again, you should take all safety means. I use a solution of 30% Nitric acid (HNO3) diluted in water- remember allways to pour acid into water and never pour water into acid!!!. Do it outside in a ventilated area. The process releases Hydrogen gas which when concentrated is explosive. In addition, a mist of the acid might be distributed. The first time that I etched, I did it indoors and in few hours all the steel parts in a radius of 6 feet got a nice rust layer. The etching process takes about 15- 20 min. depending on the acid strength and how deep you want the etch. During etching bubbles are caught between the metal and the acid, and act like insulators. A fine brush or a stream of air in the container agitates the acid and causes the bubbles to float. I also take the parts out of the etching solution every 2 min. to get rid of the bubbles. The photo shows the parts during etching (in a coffee jar)
[attachment=14786]

and after 20 min.
[attachment=14787]

After cleaning the resist with paint thinner. Note that the surface is lower than the masked areas and the borderline between the etched surface and the masked line is deeper.
[attachment=14788]

After polishing
[attachment=14789]

After patination and tumbling
[attachment=14790]

Some finished items
[attachment=14791][attachment=14792] [attachment=14793]

Please feel free to ask any question about the process or share your own experience. I am always happy to learn something new.]]> Safety first: Before starting handling corrosive acids, you must take all the precautions and read the safety rules about handling acid. Do it in a ventilated area, keep away from heat and open fire, when diluting acid always pour acid into water, never pour water into acid. Wear eye protection, avoid contact with the skin etc. The list is long but very important.

Hi to all,
I am going to demonstrate here how I do deep groove etchings on architectural items such as door handles and Judaica items. The basics of etching is very simple. The metal is etched only in the exposed areas that contact the acid. The masked area is painted with an acid resistant material that insulates the metal from the acid. Here is a pic of an etched item
[attachment=14778]

The resist: The resist that I use is Asphalt Lacquer which is made of tar dissolved in mineral spirit (Turpentine). The resist can be applied by brushing, spraying over a mask or by dispensing. Here is the dispenser that I made.
[attachment=14781]

The dispenser is assembled from a low air pressure regulator, a miniature needle valve, a pneumatic foot switch, some tubing and a disposable syringe attached to an adaptor.
Filling the syringe with the resist.
[attachment=14779]

I cut the syringe plunger and attach it to the adaptor.
[attachment=14780]

Painting the resist: When I started doing etched handles I did it with a small brush- it took hours. By using the dispensing method the process is much faster, yet each part is individually painted which keeps it an artistic item. The line thickness can be controlled by changing the needle size, the needle tip and by changing the pressure and the air flow in the dispenser.
The part is held in a bearing housing
[attachment=14783]

The pattern is painted using the foot switch to release the resist. The painting is exactly like using a fountain pen.
[attachment=14782]

After painting and drying:
[attachment=14784][attachment=14785]

The etching process:
Again, you should take all safety means. I use a solution of 30% Nitric acid (HNO3) diluted in water- remember allways to pour acid into water and never pour water into acid!!!. Do it outside in a ventilated area. The process releases Hydrogen gas which when concentrated is explosive. In addition, a mist of the acid might be distributed. The first time that I etched, I did it indoors and in few hours all the steel parts in a radius of 6 feet got a nice rust layer. The etching process takes about 15- 20 min. depending on the acid strength and how deep you want the etch. During etching bubbles are caught between the metal and the acid, and act like insulators. A fine brush or a stream of air in the container agitates the acid and causes the bubbles to float. I also take the parts out of the etching solution every 2 min. to get rid of the bubbles. The photo shows the parts during etching (in a coffee jar)
[attachment=14786]

and after 20 min.
[attachment=14787]

After cleaning the resist with paint thinner. Note that the surface is lower than the masked areas and the borderline between the etched surface and the masked line is deeper.
[attachment=14788]

After polishing
[attachment=14789]

After patination and tumbling
[attachment=14790]

Some finished items
[attachment=14791][attachment=14792] [attachment=14793]

Please feel free to ask any question about the process or share your own experience. I am always happy to learn something new.]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5970 Fri, 23 Jul 2010 19:46:23 -0600 http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5970 Found ya'll by surfing the web, looking for general blacksmithing info.
Got into blacksmithing about five years ago in order to save money on basic camp gear for 1814 Living History group.
Retired USAF and living in my hometown.]]> Found ya'll by surfing the web, looking for general blacksmithing info.
Got into blacksmithing about five years ago in order to save money on basic camp gear for 1814 Living History group.
Retired USAF and living in my hometown.]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5969 Fri, 23 Jul 2010 18:07:16 -0600 http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5969
I recently acuired a 200# Vulcan anvil, made a brake drum forge, and have been playing with some steel. So far I have been focusing on tools: tongs, hardies, fullers, bending forks, coal rake, and some small hooks.

I came to this forum for ideas on what I could do with this new found hobby. Originally my brother and I wanted to forge some knife blades. So far we've been doing stock removal, and handling blanks. Putting our own influence on the prebought blades.

Looking forward to learning form you guys and hopefully be able to share some of my knowledge from the industrial point of view.

Jeff Kindy]]>
I recently acuired a 200# Vulcan anvil, made a brake drum forge, and have been playing with some steel. So far I have been focusing on tools: tongs, hardies, fullers, bending forks, coal rake, and some small hooks.

I came to this forum for ideas on what I could do with this new found hobby. Originally my brother and I wanted to forge some knife blades. So far we've been doing stock removal, and handling blanks. Putting our own influence on the prebought blades.

Looking forward to learning form you guys and hopefully be able to share some of my knowledge from the industrial point of view.

Jeff Kindy]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5968 Fri, 23 Jul 2010 08:54:07 -0600 http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5968 some of the pics posted you have to go through several screens to view them.
other posts open up and you can scroll thru them making the viewing much easier.
What the heck am I doing wrong?]]> some of the pics posted you have to go through several screens to view them.
other posts open up and you can scroll thru them making the viewing much easier.
What the heck am I doing wrong?]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5967 Fri, 23 Jul 2010 07:51:07 -0600 http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5967

My previous job was more of an office thing and I'd really like to get into some type of manufacturing. My town has been hit pretty hard in this area though, so we'll see - time will tell.

I've attached a few pics of things I've done...

[attachment=14765] [attachment=14764] [attachment=14766] [attachment=14767]
[attachment=14768] [attachment=14769] [attachment=14770] [attachment=14771]


Working on a making a bell from a compressed gas cylinder at the moment.]]>

My previous job was more of an office thing and I'd really like to get into some type of manufacturing. My town has been hit pretty hard in this area though, so we'll see - time will tell.

I've attached a few pics of things I've done...

[attachment=14765] [attachment=14764] [attachment=14766] [attachment=14767]
[attachment=14768] [attachment=14769] [attachment=14770] [attachment=14771]


Working on a making a bell from a compressed gas cylinder at the moment.]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5966 Fri, 23 Jul 2010 07:35:22 -0600 http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5966 I asked here before about Welding or brazing silicon bronze, and Glen mentioned Tiger flux. I didn't do any welding as it turned out. Now I finally had a project I wanted to weld, and I decided to get sil-br wire, since the work is too delicate for1/16" rod. I had to special order the wire, and the guy said that Tiger Flux was recommended for torch welding, so I ordered that too. There are no directions on the can, but I noticed that it's a fine powder, instead of granules, like most brazing flux, so I decided to try mixing it with water to make a paste. This worked great! I was able to put a good thick coating on the edges to be welded, and it didn't pop off when heated. The picture below shows the welding done, after pickling.
[attachment=14760]
When I first started using bronze, last year, I was disappointed to find out that "Magic Flame", (see this), which works so well to prevent firescale on brass, is useless on bronze. I've had to put up with ugly black firescale, which takes a long time to remove in the pickle, and leaves a red copper coating even after pickling. After my success with the Tiger Flux paste, I decided to give it a try as a firescale preventive. I had to mix it with alcohol to get it to cling to the metal without beading up, which is what I also have to do with the Magic Flame. It works great! The picture below shows a piece I annealed with the Tiger Flux coating, un-pickled. No firescale!
[attachment=14761]
After that success, I decided to try the Tiger Flux for silver soldering. It seems to work better than what I've been using! ]]> I asked here before about Welding or brazing silicon bronze, and Glen mentioned Tiger flux. I didn't do any welding as it turned out. Now I finally had a project I wanted to weld, and I decided to get sil-br wire, since the work is too delicate for1/16" rod. I had to special order the wire, and the guy said that Tiger Flux was recommended for torch welding, so I ordered that too. There are no directions on the can, but I noticed that it's a fine powder, instead of granules, like most brazing flux, so I decided to try mixing it with water to make a paste. This worked great! I was able to put a good thick coating on the edges to be welded, and it didn't pop off when heated. The picture below shows the welding done, after pickling.
[attachment=14760]
When I first started using bronze, last year, I was disappointed to find out that "Magic Flame", (see this), which works so well to prevent firescale on brass, is useless on bronze. I've had to put up with ugly black firescale, which takes a long time to remove in the pickle, and leaves a red copper coating even after pickling. After my success with the Tiger Flux paste, I decided to give it a try as a firescale preventive. I had to mix it with alcohol to get it to cling to the metal without beading up, which is what I also have to do with the Magic Flame. It works great! The picture below shows a piece I annealed with the Tiger Flux coating, un-pickled. No firescale!
[attachment=14761]
After that success, I decided to try the Tiger Flux for silver soldering. It seems to work better than what I've been using! ]]> http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5965 Thu, 22 Jul 2010 19:24:37 -0600 http://www.metalartistforum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5965
It contains 60% solids, and from personnel experience, with a high solid and this was an 20% acrylic latex paint. It really does make a difference I painted a cinder block office building. In the mid 70's, 3 coats one was the primer after I power washed the existing paint off, and 2 top coats. Drove by last year and it looked great.

I saw the Doctor that owned the building this year. He said that I should have charged him a lot more for the paint job as all he did is higher somebody to wash the building with soapy water once a year and it still had a great gloss when he sold his practice a couple years ago!

So the high solids isn't hype it is a fact of life in paint formulation. "A quart will do 110 to 120sqft.

I have not used it or any of their products, but in our never ending search for the best clear and rust stopping paints. I thought that it might bear throwing it out here. In case somebody needs to paint their tractor.

It is brushable, and the web site has all the data sheets for reading.

Tractorkote AG111 web site

Here is the data sheet for the AG111 paint
]]>
It contains 60% solids, and from personnel experience, with a high solid and this was an 20% acrylic latex paint. It really does make a difference I painted a cinder block office building. In the mid 70's, 3 coats one was the primer after I power washed the existing paint off, and 2 top coats. Drove by last year and it looked great.

I saw the Doctor that owned the building this year. He said that I should have charged him a lot more for the paint job as all he did is higher somebody to wash the building with soapy water once a year and it still had a great gloss when he sold his practice a couple years ago!

So the high solids isn't hype it is a fact of life in paint formulation. "A quart will do 110 to 120sqft.

I have not used it or any of their products, but in our never ending search for the best clear and rust stopping paints. I thought that it might bear throwing it out here. In case somebody needs to paint their tractor.

It is brushable, and the web site has all the data sheets for reading.

Tractorkote AG111 web site

Here is the data sheet for the AG111 paint
]]>