Metal Artist Forum

This was on another site,I haven't dealt with them ect. but the list looked like it covers pretty much all bases!
Patina formula and science supply company
Patina Formulas for
Brass, Bronze and Copper
The Science Company has collected these recipes from a variety of sources through the years. The formulas have not been personally tested so there is no guarantee that they will work. We suggest they be employed on a "trial and error" basis first so their effectiveness can be judged by the user.
INDEX

Select coloring effect and learn how to create it with the formula.
1. Light to Dark Brown
2. Brown to Black

3. Blackish Brown
4. Florentine Brown
5. Antique Green
6. Basic Green
7. Blue Green
8. Cold Process Green
9. Light Green
10. Green
11. Purple to Light Green
12. Green-Blue (Flemish)
13. Transparent Blue
14. Blue
15. Straw Yellow
16. Golden Yellow
17. Deep Rust Red
18. Purple
19. Antique White
20. Red - semi-matt (For Copper & Copper Plate)
21. Dull Pink (For Copper & Copper Plate)
22. Red - Purple Satin (For Cast Bronze)
23. Orange Brown (For Cast Bronze)
24. Black - semi-gloss (For Cast Bronze)
25. Blue Green (For Cast Bronze)
26. Golden Yellow (For Cast Bronze)
27. Blue Green - semi-matt (For Cast Bronze)
28. Brown - Greenish Yellow (For Cast Bronze)
29. Reddish Brown (For Cast Brass)
30. Black (For Cast Brass)
31. Variegated Gold-Brown (For Cast Brass)
32. Red (For Cast Brass)
While looking over the site further,I found this helpful and interesting info.
Introduction To Patinas

* Patina Recipes and Formulas
* Patina Chemicals List
* Glossary of Chemical Name
Info on patinas
The Glossary of Chemical Names is great because it gives the old time name and what it is. if you are dealing with old books and the formula for reproducing patinas.

I've tried these guys...the matte red for copper, not so good, but the yellows and greens have all come out OK.

I've tried them too. I bought some ferric nitrate and potash to try to get a black brown patina. It came out kinda spoty I didn't like it.
Also I think its too dangerous working with something so concatrated.
I had to cruntch it up into powder and it wasn't easy, You mix one table spoon of it with about a gallon of distiled water. I spent $75 on it and $40 for shiping a hazardous material.
Now I get it from http://www.surfinchemical.com/

David Jacobson Wrote:Now I get it from http://www.surfinchemical.com/

I have to agree with ya David. I've had more experience with Sur-Fin products than any other supplier. Used them for about 17 years.
bill

[Big Grin]Looks like some great products.I like the patinas for the galvanized pipe they sure do make it look better. Their web site layout sucks I hate those 3 section ones. that you have to move up and around to see the page.
Thanks.

ornametalsmith Wrote:

David Jacobson Wrote:Now I get it from http://www.surfinchemical.com/

I have to agree with ya David. I've had more experience with Sur-Fin products than any other supplier. Used them for about 17 years.
bill

Cool, thanks for that link! Looks like minimum quantity is 1 gallon...wish they had smaller containers too.

Thanks so for the link. Am trying to find some ways to get a controlled blue, sometimes I can get it on thin copper with just my torch, but I haven't been able to completely control it.

The problem you will find with the flame painting or flame coloring of copper is that it will not last a long time even when sealed over. The only good thing about flame painting copper is you can anneal it and start over and over and over and over
Believe or not there is a dvd out on flame painting you can rent it at SmartFlix
look in the metal work for flame painting copper.

PTsideshow Wrote:The problem you will find with the flame painting or flame coloring of copper is that it will not last a long time even when sealed over. The only good thing about flame painting copper is you can anneal it and start over and over and over and over
Believe or not there is a dvd out on flame painting you can rent it at SmartFlix
look in the metal work for flame painting copper.

Thank you, I have had some blues that have lasted (sealed 10 years or so) but they are small areas.
I will check out SmartFlix.
There is always more to learn, and I keep finding that I know less today than yesterday.
Again my thanks.

Guess I'm lucky. I get my chemicals from Chemlab in Phoenix. Shipping hazardous materials can be pricey.

Its always a good idea to search the net for the specific chemical you are looking for. You might be surprised how many chemicals you can buy off the shelf in the hardware store under different brand names.

Sodium BiSulphate= pool PH reducer
Boric Acid= Natural Insecticide
Copper Sulphate= Root killer

etc, etc