06-17-2007, 04:02 PM
These fixtures are for the McCullough Price House, in Chandler Arizona. Here are a few links about the house.
http://webport.cgc.maricopa.edu/publishe...price.html
http://www.azcentral.com/community/ahwat...30-ON.html
Keep in mind, per my contract, I had to re-create these pieces as close to the original drawings as possible.
[attachment=3402]
The project started off with some forging. I stamped the mounting plates with the Flypress, forged some leaves on the ends of twisted stock for the sides, and veined and twisted the supporting arms.
[attachment=3403]
Since the design called for a hexagon shape, I had a friend of mine plasma cut some hexagon shapes with his CNC machine. This saved some time and produced a perfect hexagon.
[attachment=3404]
I did some thinking on how to form the dome tops. They are round on top and hexagon on the sides. My first thought was to form the dome from a single piece of round stock, then crease the edges over a stake to form the hexagon shape. This probably would not have been a bad choice if I had not already had the hexagon plates cut. Trying to determine the correct diameter of circle to start with, and trying to figure how much diameter I would loose in the forming, just to make it fit the hexagon plate was too much. I had visions of throwing many out until I got the right form. So I decided to form it from six separate pieces. This didn't turn out to be bad at all.
I started with a cardboard template to ensure a good fit. Then traced the template onto some 18ga CR sheet, and cut it with the Beverly. Then I clamped them together and sanded the edges smooth to ensure and even fit.
[attachment=3405][attachment=3406][attachment=3407][attachment=3408]
To connect them, I welded the pieces in pairs. This allowed me to hammer them on the the shot bag, and weld them up as they formed together. Non-marring plastic hammers work great for hammering metal that you eventually want smooth. After each dome was completed, I smoothed out any noticeable lumps with the English wheel.
[attachment=3409][attachment=3410][attachment=3411][attachment=3412][attachment=3413]
To attach the small decorate twists on top of the domes, I welded a rivet from the back side. This will also serve as the mount for a leafy finial.
[attachment=3414][attachment=3415]
For the sides that support the fixture and hold the glass, I used 1/2 angle iron. Since the 90 degree angle of angle iron obviously doesn't match up to the angle of the hexagon, I set the check nut on my Flypress and smashed it to shape.
[attachment=3416][attachment=3417]
I also had to give some thought on how the light bulb was going to be changed. These are outdoor fixtures and I want them watertight. So I decided to make a mounting plate, and cut out the bottom of the fixture. The fixtures will be secured from underneath with screws. I was getting anxious and figured this was a good time to add the twists as well.
[attachment=3418][attachment=3419]
Following the design of the sketches, I used the Flypress to re-create the zig-zag design. I drew the zig-zag pattern by hand on each one to keep that hand made look that these would have had back then.
[attachment=3420] [attachment=3421][attachment=3422][attachment=3423][attachment=3424]
The design called for hood vents. This really makes me wonder what type of lamps these were. I assume from the date of the drawings (1920's-30's) that they were electric. Who knows. But the hood vents make me think they might have been gas lanterns. Anyway, light bulbs don't need vents and I don't want water getting in these fixtures so I made some fake vents. (actually, heat can vent out the tops of the glass pains. However, I still don't think it's necessary)
The design also called for rosettes all around the fixtures. I used the flypress to make some quick and easy rosettes (needed 24 of them) that turned out nice. I sliced 24 wafers about 1/8 inch thick out of 1 1/4 inch cold roll bar with the band saw. Pressed the flower petals in, set the center hole for drilling, set a 1/4 rivet in, and punched it for a flower effect.
[attachment=3455][attachment=3456][attachment=3457][attachment=3458][attachment=3459]
Now it's time to assemble the bases. I really like to assemble things standing upright like they will be mounted. I feel it gives you the best perspective to judge the balance and reduces surprises at install time. I made a quick jig out of a 2 x 4 and leveled it off. The wall mounts were pressed against my table so I still had a good ground for welding.
Someone in another thread suggested running a tube along the arm that supports the fixture to run the wiring through. Mimicking a gas lantern. After some thought I decided to try this and see how it looked. I kind of like the way it worked out.
[attachment=3460][attachment=3461][attachment=3462]
Finally! All the metalwork is done. Here they are cleaned up and ready for a patina.
[attachment=3463][attachment=3464]
I started with PC9 to blacken everything up. Then applied a light rust patina to add some reds. This will go well with the exterior of the house. After washing the chemicals off and thoroughly drying, I apply a light coat of Permalac to see what colors I've got. I then highlighted the textures and various area's with German Silver Gilders Paste. Then applied about five final coats of Permalac.
[attachment=3480] [attachment=3481]
TIP: It's a good idea to brush the Permalac into area's that will be hard to spray into, before you apply the final coat.
[attachment=3482]
After cutting and fitting the glass, and wiring the fixtures, I can call these done.
All that's left is a little silicon clean up tomorrow after it cures.
[attachment=3483][attachment=3484][attachment=3485]
http://webport.cgc.maricopa.edu/publishe...price.html
http://www.azcentral.com/community/ahwat...30-ON.html
Keep in mind, per my contract, I had to re-create these pieces as close to the original drawings as possible.
[attachment=3402]
The project started off with some forging. I stamped the mounting plates with the Flypress, forged some leaves on the ends of twisted stock for the sides, and veined and twisted the supporting arms.
[attachment=3403]
Since the design called for a hexagon shape, I had a friend of mine plasma cut some hexagon shapes with his CNC machine. This saved some time and produced a perfect hexagon.
[attachment=3404]
I did some thinking on how to form the dome tops. They are round on top and hexagon on the sides. My first thought was to form the dome from a single piece of round stock, then crease the edges over a stake to form the hexagon shape. This probably would not have been a bad choice if I had not already had the hexagon plates cut. Trying to determine the correct diameter of circle to start with, and trying to figure how much diameter I would loose in the forming, just to make it fit the hexagon plate was too much. I had visions of throwing many out until I got the right form. So I decided to form it from six separate pieces. This didn't turn out to be bad at all.
I started with a cardboard template to ensure a good fit. Then traced the template onto some 18ga CR sheet, and cut it with the Beverly. Then I clamped them together and sanded the edges smooth to ensure and even fit.
[attachment=3405][attachment=3406][attachment=3407][attachment=3408]
To connect them, I welded the pieces in pairs. This allowed me to hammer them on the the shot bag, and weld them up as they formed together. Non-marring plastic hammers work great for hammering metal that you eventually want smooth. After each dome was completed, I smoothed out any noticeable lumps with the English wheel.
[attachment=3409][attachment=3410][attachment=3411][attachment=3412][attachment=3413]
To attach the small decorate twists on top of the domes, I welded a rivet from the back side. This will also serve as the mount for a leafy finial.
[attachment=3414][attachment=3415]
For the sides that support the fixture and hold the glass, I used 1/2 angle iron. Since the 90 degree angle of angle iron obviously doesn't match up to the angle of the hexagon, I set the check nut on my Flypress and smashed it to shape.
[attachment=3416][attachment=3417]
I also had to give some thought on how the light bulb was going to be changed. These are outdoor fixtures and I want them watertight. So I decided to make a mounting plate, and cut out the bottom of the fixture. The fixtures will be secured from underneath with screws. I was getting anxious and figured this was a good time to add the twists as well.
[attachment=3418][attachment=3419]
Following the design of the sketches, I used the Flypress to re-create the zig-zag design. I drew the zig-zag pattern by hand on each one to keep that hand made look that these would have had back then.
[attachment=3420] [attachment=3421][attachment=3422][attachment=3423][attachment=3424]
The design called for hood vents. This really makes me wonder what type of lamps these were. I assume from the date of the drawings (1920's-30's) that they were electric. Who knows. But the hood vents make me think they might have been gas lanterns. Anyway, light bulbs don't need vents and I don't want water getting in these fixtures so I made some fake vents. (actually, heat can vent out the tops of the glass pains. However, I still don't think it's necessary)
The design also called for rosettes all around the fixtures. I used the flypress to make some quick and easy rosettes (needed 24 of them) that turned out nice. I sliced 24 wafers about 1/8 inch thick out of 1 1/4 inch cold roll bar with the band saw. Pressed the flower petals in, set the center hole for drilling, set a 1/4 rivet in, and punched it for a flower effect.
[attachment=3455][attachment=3456][attachment=3457][attachment=3458][attachment=3459]
Now it's time to assemble the bases. I really like to assemble things standing upright like they will be mounted. I feel it gives you the best perspective to judge the balance and reduces surprises at install time. I made a quick jig out of a 2 x 4 and leveled it off. The wall mounts were pressed against my table so I still had a good ground for welding.
Someone in another thread suggested running a tube along the arm that supports the fixture to run the wiring through. Mimicking a gas lantern. After some thought I decided to try this and see how it looked. I kind of like the way it worked out.
[attachment=3460][attachment=3461][attachment=3462]
Finally! All the metalwork is done. Here they are cleaned up and ready for a patina.
[attachment=3463][attachment=3464]
I started with PC9 to blacken everything up. Then applied a light rust patina to add some reds. This will go well with the exterior of the house. After washing the chemicals off and thoroughly drying, I apply a light coat of Permalac to see what colors I've got. I then highlighted the textures and various area's with German Silver Gilders Paste. Then applied about five final coats of Permalac.
[attachment=3480] [attachment=3481]
TIP: It's a good idea to brush the Permalac into area's that will be hard to spray into, before you apply the final coat.
[attachment=3482]
After cutting and fitting the glass, and wiring the fixtures, I can call these done.
All that's left is a little silicon clean up tomorrow after it cures.[attachment=3483][attachment=3484][attachment=3485]


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nicely put together.
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